70. Out with the Old and in with the New (zipper) Replacement.

Ah! Zippers

zipper replacement

Can make you scream “why me”! And they always require attention at the most inconvenient times, like most jobs you don’t fancy doing. Well this little job had to be done this morning and before it ended up on the mending basket, where it would never to be seen again.

The zipper I ripped out was an invisible one and nice as it is on a dress, it is also not the most practical one to use for a cushion. Luckily like most seamstresses I have a little stash of valuable items in a drawer. This new zipper is much more serviceable and less likely to break. The closed end trouser type, in my estimation a very practical type of zipper.

Luckily this was a half hour job and I was able to get back to more pressing jobs that require my time, like sewing my wrap dress that is almost finished. I just have the side seams left to do. Cross my fingers, this week I’ll wrap up my wrap dress.

Zipper Finished

Not too bad, good enough for my bed.

Next Job the wrap up Wrap Dress!

wrap dress finish

Yes, the wrap dress is under all this mess. Tomorrow I’ll dig it out.

Question: Which zipper is your favorite? And do you believe practice makes perfect, or at least more confident!

Keep Calm & Sew On

Jennifer

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64. A little progress report on the wrap dress.

64. A little progress report on the wrap dress.

 

Sewing up the sides

I’m almost finished, I suspect this week will be the last and on the weekend I’ll just be touching things up. I know this is an odd angle but I’m still basting the right-side seam.

wrap dress 1

The size I went with was (10) not just because I’m a size (10) but for this pattern it was just a tad too small which I thought would be good since it was a stretch fabric.

I’ve basted by hand the outside of the dress before I make the final stitching of the side seams. This is because I have to fit the wrap dress to my figure first and make any adjustments.

I’m very please with the gathers at the left side-seam, I may have to adjust the gathers if I have to take the dress in more than I expect, we’ll see. Next after the side-seam will be the short sleeves and hemming.

Well this post was short and sweet, I’ll be getting back to sewing now.

Question: I don’t have a lot of experience with stretch fabric, so any last-minute advice would be appreciated.

God Bless & Sew On

Thank you,

Jennifer

13A. The Wrap of It! Dress; Adjusting the Pattern to fit me.

The Wrap of It

 

Step 1:    The first order of business is to layout the pattern on the table and measure the bust, waist and hip lines. This is called flat pattern measuring. Verify my measurements and compare them to the pattern and decide on the size I’ll go with. I do this because even though on the back of pattern sleeve I’m given measurements for each size I find that I still need to compare so I have a better idea of what to do with the pattern, so it will fit me.

Things to do prior to cutting fabric:

  • Launder the fabric. I like to see how the fabric holds up to a normal washing.
  • I like to press the paper pattern on light heat no steam, this takes out the creases in the paper.
  • I’ve spent some time today reading the pattern.
  • Tomorrow I’ll spend time measuring pattern and compare my measurements to it, this will give me a good idea what size I will go with.
  • I like dress (B) but I think that I’ll make 3 1/4 length sleeves. Instead of full length sleeves. Change of mind; I’m going to go with the short sleeve (cap). I don’t want to alter the long sleeve to 3/4 inch as well widen it.
  • I like the gather at the waist and I’ll lengthen the hem a few more inches aswell.

The measurements I’ll check are bust, Waist and hip and back length. I think it’s size 10 for me. with a few adjustments with a hip curve along the way will do. Ok! Instead of adjusting the hip I’m going to add a full inch on side seams so I can play with wiggle room. I want the dress to run smoothly over my hips. So, not too tight and not too loose.

I find I don’t get over whelmed by a project if I split it up into smaller parts:

  • check size of pattern and yourself.
  • transfer pattern to paper to make any adjustment.
  • pin pattern to fabric. Usually I try pattern out with muslin but with the stretchy fabric I’ll baste side seams together.
  • Start sewing. Take time to press stitch line before you open up the seam.

Because I’m not going to do a muslin of this dress, I’m a bit hesitant about what size. In past experiences I’ve gone for the right-side but then found the garment too big, so I am going to the size that’s just a shad too small because there is a stretch. there is no ease with this dress because the stretch takes up the ease but I also don’t want it to be too tight and show all my lumps and bumps in an unflattering way!! problem. Man I am humming and hawing way too much about this, I just hate to have the size too big. This dress is to hug my curves not fall limp on me.

Size 10 is the best I believe because the bust is 1 inch smaller than me and the pattern hip is half an inch smaller than me. I’m going to give myself (1″) seam allowance on side seams this should be good for any adjustments, (usually it’s only 5/8″ S.A.). Then I will baste the side seams first. Then once I have everything the way I want it, I’ll sew a permanent seam.There is no waist measurement on the back of the pattern envelope but I’ve measured the pattern and it is good and besides the gather will pull in the waist and create the waist curve. Ok, I feel better getting that of my chest, size (10) it is. I’m just going to lengthen the hem line a couple of inches. I’m not always keen on the shorter skirt, it often emphasises the wider part of the leg instead of tapering to a smaller area of the leg. Then lead to the curve of the calf. That’s what I like. Clothing one-self is often a deception of sorts. I like to think that it is directing the eye to your best physical qualities. Oh! by the way I’m going with the cap sleeves, I think it will look nicer.

I ran into a bump while adjusting the side seam. Now, usually I only have to work with one side because the center front is on the fold,but as I was working with one side of one front panel (there are two front panels) I realised that I’d have to adjust the other side as well. I will do this for the other front panel as well, glad I was paying attention. Sewing a garment is a bit like life, always full of surprises.

P.S. A few last minute instructions to self, remember to mark each copied pattern piece for future reference. Nothing worse than coming back to a pattern and realizing you don’t know what you’re working on. I always put pattern number, brand, size, pattern piece (front, sleeve etc.) who it’s for, how many pieces to cut out and which version your sewing.

P.S.-P.S. Remember write everything down, just saying.

A few pictures: to show you.

 

Next Post will be cutting and basting: Wish me luck!

 

 

13. A Classic Wrap Dress that doesn’t Wrap! The traditional way.

As soon as I saw this fabric in Fabricland I knew what pattern it was going to be used for. McCall’s M7186. The fabric is a stretchy lycra/poly blend, a blue animal print. I’ve worked a bit with this type of material before, but I am still going to read up a bit before I make the first snip.

I received some great advice from a lady at fabricland who had sewn this pattern already. She advised me first to baste sides seams together. Then useing a curve ruler to merge different sizes together, also I’ll give myself a bit more seam allowance to work with. This will help me  adjust side seams to fit me. Gillian (my dress form) will come in handy when I am smoothing out the the side seams. Then of course, I’ll see how it fits on me.

Like most of us, our bodies are not as straight forward as patterns are. I’d say my bust line is smaller than my hip line; therefore, I’m going to have to draw in a new side seam after I transfer the pattern to paper and ease the two measurements together using a curve ruler.
This pattern has no zippers, so you pull it on like a snug shirt. The first wrap panel fits under from left to right then the top panel is vis versa, and this panel has a gather at the side.

I will be lining the back of the dress in a lighter but similar fabric but I have been debating whether I should line the two front panels or would this be too much? I think I would! that being said, I’m still unsure. Maybe after I read up a bit I’ll find my answer.

This week I will be adjusting the pattern sizes and checking my measurements in the next blog (step 1, of 13. A classic wrap dress). First I’ll transfer the pattern to plain paper, then I’ll show you how I adjust my measurements to the pattern. The paper I will be using, you can find at any medical store. Basically it’s the paper that Doctors use to cover that funny bed/table in their office.

If any of you have worked with this type of fabric, what can you say about it? I’ll be learning how to deal with it soon enough! Fun, always love a challenge.

That all being said! Lets get down to the business of sewing.