13A. The Wrap of It! Dress; Adjusting the Pattern to fit me.

The Wrap of It

 

Step 1:    The first order of business is to layout the pattern on the table and measure the bust, waist and hip lines. This is called flat pattern measuring. Verify my measurements and compare them to the pattern and decide on the size I’ll go with. I do this because even though on the back of pattern sleeve I’m given measurements for each size I find that I still need to compare so I have a better idea of what to do with the pattern, so it will fit me.

Things to do prior to cutting fabric:

  • Launder the fabric. I like to see how the fabric holds up to a normal washing.
  • I like to press the paper pattern on light heat no steam, this takes out the creases in the paper.
  • I’ve spent some time today reading the pattern.
  • Tomorrow I’ll spend time measuring pattern and compare my measurements to it, this will give me a good idea what size I will go with.
  • I like dress (B) but I think that I’ll make 3 1/4 length sleeves. Instead of full length sleeves. Change of mind; I’m going to go with the short sleeve (cap). I don’t want to alter the long sleeve to 3/4 inch as well widen it.
  • I like the gather at the waist and I’ll lengthen the hem a few more inches aswell.

The measurements I’ll check are bust, Waist and hip and back length. I think it’s size 10 for me. with a few adjustments with a hip curve along the way will do. Ok! Instead of adjusting the hip I’m going to add a full inch on side seams so I can play with wiggle room. I want the dress to run smoothly over my hips. So, not too tight and not too loose.

I find I don’t get over whelmed by a project if I split it up into smaller parts:

  • check size of pattern and yourself.
  • transfer pattern to paper to make any adjustment.
  • pin pattern to fabric. Usually I try pattern out with muslin but with the stretchy fabric I’ll baste side seams together.
  • Start sewing. Take time to press stitch line before you open up the seam.

Because I’m not going to do a muslin of this dress, I’m a bit hesitant about what size. In past experiences I’ve gone for the right-side but then found the garment too big, so I am going to the size that’s just a shad too small because there is a stretch. there is no ease with this dress because the stretch takes up the ease but I also don’t want it to be too tight and show all my lumps and bumps in an unflattering way!! problem. Man I am humming and hawing way too much about this, I just hate to have the size too big. This dress is to hug my curves not fall limp on me.

Size 10 is the best I believe because the bust is 1 inch smaller than me and the pattern hip is half an inch smaller than me. I’m going to give myself (1″) seam allowance on side seams this should be good for any adjustments, (usually it’s only 5/8″ S.A.). Then I will baste the side seams first. Then once I have everything the way I want it, I’ll sew a permanent seam.There is no waist measurement on the back of the pattern envelope but I’ve measured the pattern and it is good and besides the gather will pull in the waist and create the waist curve. Ok, I feel better getting that of my chest, size (10) it is. I’m just going to lengthen the hem line a couple of inches. I’m not always keen on the shorter skirt, it often emphasises the wider part of the leg instead of tapering to a smaller area of the leg. Then lead to the curve of the calf. That’s what I like. Clothing one-self is often a deception of sorts. I like to think that it is directing the eye to your best physical qualities. Oh! by the way I’m going with the cap sleeves, I think it will look nicer.

I ran into a bump while adjusting the side seam. Now, usually I only have to work with one side because the center front is on the fold,but as I was working with one side of one front panel (there are two front panels) I realised that I’d have to adjust the other side as well. I will do this for the other front panel as well, glad I was paying attention. Sewing a garment is a bit like life, always full of surprises.

P.S. A few last minute instructions to self, remember to mark each copied pattern piece for future reference. Nothing worse than coming back to a pattern and realizing you don’t know what you’re working on. I always put pattern number, brand, size, pattern piece (front, sleeve etc.) who it’s for, how many pieces to cut out and which version your sewing.

P.S.-P.S. Remember write everything down, just saying.

A few pictures: to show you.

 

Next Post will be cutting and basting: Wish me luck!

 

 

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